• Apprentice
    5 Jan 2017, 6:12 a.m.

    I recently took the plunge into IWC ownership with the acquisition of a new Portofino Chronograph. So far I've been super happy with my decision. I love the styling and feel of the watch and think it's an absolutely perfect, slightly dressier companion to my previous daily workhorse, a 15 year old Omega Seamaster Professional.

    Like most guys (I think) once I had the watch I started learning everything I could about it and one bit that I found interesting was the story behind the 75320 movement. I know it's sourced from Sellita and is essentially a high-grade SW500 built to IWC spec. I also know the switch to Sellita from ETA was prompted by the later's decision to scale back its business with non-Swatch brands. And finally that it's essentially a clone of the 79320, which was previously used in the Portofino Chronograph.

    What I found interesting was that IWC is still using the 79320 is several of it's other lines, such as the Pilot Watches. My question is, why the half and half approach? I get why IWC would want to move away from ETA to protect their supply against possible disruption, but wouldn't it make sense to phase out all the 79320s in the process and deal with a single part instead of two identical ones? It seems like a lot of added hassle and some additional risk in terms of quality control and reputation.

    In the end I guess it doesn't really matter either way since the movements are essentially the same and, from what I've seen, work great. I'm just curious to see if anyone can shed some light on IWC's thought process here?

  • Graduate
    10 Aug 2017, 7:24 p.m.

    Very interesting question, I like it!

    It's mostly a cost issue. Developing your own movement is costly as you need a lot of research and a lot of time to fully test your prototype. I don't think that you can develop a decent movement under 7 years while being sure of its performances.

    IWC is trying to produce more and more things themselves but there are still a lot of parts that are being manufactured elsewhere. Non full in house watches get their cases from other companies, crystal and gaskets come from Asia. Folding clasps and pin buckles come from Boucle d'Or SA.

    It's a long way to go. It's really difficult to be 100% independent in that sector. You need to be able to produce hands, dials, cases, hairsprings, etc...

    As for your original question I personally find the ETA based movements superior to the Sellita ones.

    Cheers

  • Master
    11 Aug 2017, 4:19 a.m.

    Interesting answer.

    I think Jerome was never asking about in-house vs. sellita/ETA. He was probably aware of sellita vs ETA. I think he is more interested in knowing how IWC still sourcing for ETA while it already has Sellita as a supplier.

    Obviously I cannot speak for IWC. I have little knowledge on how it runs its manufacturing and operations.

    My gut feeling tells me that (and from my own limited knowledge of supply-chain management) if you are getting materials supply, you better have multiple sources. That way, if one supplier fails to deliver, your entire production line will not halt because of that.

    Also, is IWC willing to move entirely away from ETA just yet? I don't think so. Many of its product lines still heavily rely on ETA to supply their movements. If IWC completely turns away from ETA, what if Sellita has some hic-cup while supplying their movements?

    Furthermore, just from my own little observations, I can tell IWC is still somewhat conservative an engineering company. (This is actually a good thing). Traditionally the Pilot and Portugieser lines of watches are their cash-cow and "flag-ship". They seldom do anything to really rock these two lines. Anything experimental--they tend to "test the water" with other "niche" lines, such as Ingenieur, Da Vinci and Portofino.

    So, it is only natural that if IWC wants to introduce SW500 movements into their watches, choosing something like a Portofino to do it makes a lot of sense.

    Finally, would you be a happy customer if the watch you purchased had a SW500, while the other person buying it in the next month gets a 7750?? It is not only a logistics/servicing/support nightmare, but also a PR disaster. So, if you were IWC, you only got limited supplies of 7750 and SW500, what would you do? producing 3777 with 7750 and Portofino chrono with SW500, maybe?

    Just my 2c worth.

  • Connoisseur
    11 Aug 2017, 5:14 a.m.

    IMHO IWC developed the cal. family 69xxx (with day-date and 7750-like dial layout with only minimal change) to replace all the 7750-based bought-in calibers (Sellita SW500 too) and declared that they do not wish to sell (or at least produce...) these watches for a higher price - that is to keep the prices within the 7750-caliber limits. (In case of the first, limited series of the new Ingy they were successful with these price margins.) If not, they'll surely loose lots of customers who are not able or not willing to pay an even higher price for the 7750/69000 caliber shift.
    Now they clearly define which series (Portugieser, Flieger, Aquatimer) have the ETA 7750 and which (Portofino) have the SW500. You can check it on the website (79320 vs. 75320 as in the title of this thread). According to my knowledge Da Vinci and Ingy lines do not have bought-in chronograph calibers right at the moment.
    (I myself am waiting very much for a normal-sized day-date AT Chrono with the 69000 caliber family... hope this will come very soon...)
    Hope this helps.