Movements Come to Life
By Michael R. Friedberg
All mechanical watches can be fascinating because of their intricate movements. Even simple watches, ones that only tell time, are extraordinarily complex mechanisms that have hundreds of miniscule parts that work harmoniously together. A complicated watch, one that performs additional functions, is by definition even more complicated.
But there are complications and, then again, complications. Simple complications can include straightforward calendar functions that tell the date or chronograph functions that measure elapsed time. At the other extreme, there are “high” complications --watches representing haute haute horlogerie. These high complications, which are assembled in a special atelier at IWC in Schaffhausen, represent some of the most complex and costly watches in the world, including repeaters, tourbillons and, now, IWC’s ne plus ultra, the Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia.
Across the corridor from the haute horlogerie department, there is another special complications department producing other complicated watches. These include all rattrapantes, which essentially are two chronographs that can work consecutively and in German are called Doppelchronographen – double-chronographs. These also include IWC’s perpetual calendars and, surprisingly, an especially complex complication that isn’t only a movement – the Deep Two, with its complex case to measure underwater depth and which requires special state-of-the-art watchmaking expertise.
Christian Bresser, the department co-head for this section, is an especially experienced, although young, watchmaker. Having spent time in the United States as a child, over the last 15 years he has lived in Germany and, now, Switzerland. Chris revels in the assembly of these watches. One feels his enthusiasm and his earned delight in producing each rattrapante, Chris believes that he is bringing something to life every time he assembles a movement. He says with relish that he is able to “animate these pieces composed just of metals and springs”.
It is exciting work, which literally fell into his lap. As a child, Chris was thrilled when he assembled model airplanes, and he very much wanted to be a fighter pilot. He explained that his eyesight didn’t qualify him (although it is more than precise enough to look through a loupe and meticulously assemble parts almost too small to see). Chris initially was involved in the jewelry industry and applied for an apprenticeship as a goldsmith and a diamond cutter but finally, by coincidence, Chris started schooling in Germany and became a watchmaker.
There is a good chance that Chris or one of his colleagues will have assembled your IWC perpetual calendar, double-chronograph or Deep Two. The team consists primarily of five individuals producing the Deep Two models, six watchmakers mostly assembling rattrapantes and generally eight who concentrate on perpetual calendars. It's a small and specialized group, and the type of complications they work on may vary based on production schedules.
Movements are delivered to the department as basic movements, which are pre- regulated. In a sense, the department is a “module” department, since they specialize in assembling the additional parts of the complication, thereafter integrating those into the base movement. For rattrapantes, it is first determined that the base chronograph is working and then the rattrapante bridges are added, followed by the hands and, subsequently the rotor. The work is done on the movements in consecutive steps, placing the same parts on each movement.
But there is more than movement assembly done here. The watchmakers need to ascertain that the movement works together with all of the indicators. The department engages in what’s called “Posage”, a French word used in the world of watchmaking that doesn't translate perfectly into English. Literally, it means “storage”, but here it involves adjustment or “making fit”. This includes setting the day and date, the dial and then the hands. For a complicated watch, the indicators need to work along with the movement parts.
At every step in the process, there are meticulous quality control procedures. Every part is tested as it is placed. For all the movements here, there are very minute adjustments, even including adjusting bridges ever so slightly. These modules are truly hand-fitted.
It’s painstaking work, requiring years of training, focused concentration and uncanny precision. These skills cannot be completely learned, since each watchmaker must possess an innate aptitude. But to those fortunate enough to be endowed with the right mindset and ability, the details, the small parts and the minute adjustments are what it's all about. Their patience literally brings those miniscule parts of a working watch to life. There is a contagion just experiencing the thrill of two chronograph hands first working independently or in sync. There is an undeniable satisfaction watching a small mechanical instrument, which they have produced, keep track of every day on the calendar, including months of differing days and even leap years. One watchmaker tests each Deep Two through a complicated pressure device, and delights when “their” watch accurately measures depth under water for the first time.
The end results are exciting to the watchmakers here, and likewise they thrill every person who buys, or wishes to buy, an IWC watch. Producing these watches, by this team of skilled watchmakers, involves metal parts suddenly coming alive. These special models are complicated, and that's what makes them special.
