The reference 5441 was the rebirth of the Portuguese collection for IWC in
1993.
In this year, IWC had it's 125th anniversary. It was (mostly) Hannes Pantli
who originated the idea of giving new life to the Portuguese watches.
Up to then, there only had been the reference 325. The reference 325 ( or mod
228) was watch intended to be wristwatch with chronometer precision. There for
IWC used their pocket watch movements which were capable of providing such
reliability. All movements used in all series of the reference 325 are pocket
watch movements.
The reference 325 was made in three series.
The first series was made from 1939 - 1951 in 304 examples housing Calibre 74.
_1st series reference 325. Picture credits Philipps auctions _
The second series was made from 1944 - 1970 in 329 examples housing Calibre
98.
2nd series reference 325. Private collection of an anonymous collector
The third and last series of the reference 325 was made from 1977 - 1981 in
just 57 examples housing Calibre 982.
3rd series reference 325 .Picture credit: Philipps auctions
This last series is often referred to as the " Missing Link" as it bridges the
original Portuguese production with the more modern and rebirth Portuguese
watches that sparked the beginning of the Portuguese collection. Another
nickname is the " German Edition" as most of them were sold in Germany and
more specifically in Frankfurt.
All reference 325 Portuguese watches were cased in a 41.5mm steel case and had
drilled lug holes and had a closed case back. The original cases were made by
Wyss & Cie which was a case maker in Biel. The case is a tree-part case. The
steel used for the cases is "Staybrite stainless steel" which was a popular
material to use due to it's anti scrath and corrosion prospects.
There is a wide variety in dials ( 18 known so far throughout all the series)
and different styles of hands. The most common are the leaf hands, but also
syringe hands were used for the reference 325. Interestingly enough, in the
last series IWC also used the extravagant Louis 14th style hands for a portion
of the production. Why IWC choose to do this is, at least to me, not known.
Also, the first two series are recognizable by their big crown. It should be
mentioned that out of the 690 original reference 325 watches only 141 pieces
were actually sold to Portugal. These watches are recognized by their little
stamp (puncao) on the upper left lug. This is in fact an armadillo. Sometimes
a mistake is made and also examples with the puncao on the bottom right lug
are known. An example is Lot 63 from Philipps Auction in New York from their
auction " Styled. Timeless watches and how to wear them". Auction was held on
December 5th 2018. With an estimate of US$ 80.000- 120.000 , the watch sold
for $68.750,- . This was a first series with syringe hands and luminous arabic
hour markers on a black gilt dial.
_ Watch sold in New York Auction Picture credits Philipps auction_
So now we are in 1993 and we see the introduction of three new watches. The
all are within the reference 5441. For the total completion of this reference,
it took IWC approximately five years. I am not aware of 5441 references being
made after 1998.
Reference 5441 in steel. Picture credits Bulangandsons
It's the first time in all of Portuguese history we see a non-steel edition.
The references being. 5441-01 and 5441-02 in steel made in 1000 examples. The
01 indicates delivery with a glossy brown strap and the 02 indicates delivery
on a glossy black strap. Then we have the 5441-03 and 5441-04 which is the
rose gold one made in 500 examples were the 03 indicates the delivery on a
glossy brown strap and the 04 the delivery on a glossy black strap. Finally we
have the 5441-05 and 5441-06. This is the platinum one made in 250 examples
where the 05 indicates delivery on a glossy brown strap and the delivery on a
glossy black strap. All straps are alligator straps.
Then,in the year 1997 IWC commemorates the 50th anniversary of their Italian
retailer PISA in Milan. For this occasion IWC created a special piece made in
just 50 examples. It was the rarest Portuguese reference in that time. The
exact reference is 5441-07. The watch was originally delivered on a matte
brown alligator strap with the PISA named stamped on the inside of the strap.
There are a few differences between the regular production 5441 and the PISA
5441-07 :
It's notable difference in rarity. Just 50 examples of the 5441-07 PISA and the other steel 5441-01 and 5441-02 a total of 1000 pieces made.
Only 5441 reference with a retailer stamp.
The individual limitation number is with the 5441-07 PISA on the movement and not the case band as is the case with the 5441.
PISA also mentioned on movement bridge
Only 5441 reference with blued steel hands (which is also a true rarity across all of reference 325 series)
Only non ref 325 with Breguet numerals to date.
All reference 5441 have leaf shaped hands, a sapphire glass case back and
Acrylic glass on the front.
Dial side of the PISA 5441-07
Movement side of the PISA 5441-07
In the first and second series of the reference 325 we see pieces with similar
styling to the PISA (which is logical since the 5441 took it's inspiration of
the reference 325). These dials also have a 24-hour indication. Known both
with a white and black dial. A first series white dial with blued hands and 24
hour indication was sold on June 16, 1939 to Zipper in Limberg/Lviv
Many years later , in the year 2015 , IWC made a very limited edition of a
reference 5441 inspired watch. This the reference 544001. This watch was made
in 10 examples only as is a commemorative watch for the 10th anniversary of
Revolution magazine. This watch was only made in red gold. Differences with
the regular rose gold 5441 are:
Movement. Calibre 9828 for reference 5441 and Calibre 98200 for reference 544001.
Size increasement. 41.5mm for the reference 5441 and 42mm for the reference 544001.
Different signature. Most noticeable in the word " Schaffhausen". Which is written straight and more modern in the reference 544001 and cursive and more older styled with the reference 5441.
On the ratchet weel, the reference 544001 has an engraving that reads " 10th
anniversary Revolution"" with in the middle a red star , which is the logo of
Revolution. Delivered originally on a brown matte alligator strap.
Front of the 544001. Picture credit Watchesbysjx
Movement side of the 544001. Picture credit
Watchesbysjx
This reference was the final 5441 reference or 5441 Jubilee inspired
reference. It should be mentioned that during the production of the reference
5441, IWC was already busy further developing the Portuguese as a collection.
Examples are the introduction of the Minute Repeater reference 5240 in 1995,
the Chrono-Rattrapante reference 3712 in 1996 and last but not least the "
Small Portuguese" reference 3532 in 1998.
This article was bases on a article from Arthur Touchot from Philipps auctions
( Link: ( www.phillips.com/article/38067071/the-iwc-portugieser-the- anonymous-watch-that-became-world-famous )
The website of gregsteer.net with overview of all
Portuguese watches
Help from collectors Mark. L and
Martin D, and
A fantastic article by David Seyffer and Michael Friedberg regarding the
history of
the Portuguese collection. ( Link : www.iwc.com/en/forum/history-of- iwcs-portugieser-watches-reference-325.html )
All pictures belong to their respective owners. Pictures without credit are
pictures taken by myself.
