• Insider
    3 May 2020, 7:27 p.m.

    Today I am showing pocket watches of a new kind. The basic caliber is the c.95
    which

    emerged from calibers 67/68. In the 1980th there was a tendency to produce
    flat movements with modern pocket watches:

    The first watch I show has the caliber 95 from 1959 and has a diameter of 46
    mm. The movement
    height
    is 32 mm (H3).

    The second watch is a savonette and is even lower with a movement height of
    1.85 mm. The caliber was designated as caliber 185. These watches were built
    in small numbers in 1981/82. I think these movements were bought in and marked
    with IWC.

    Both watches were called tailcoat watches and have a wonderful and elegant
    appearance.

  • Insider
    4 May 2020, 9:41 a.m.

    Hi Mr Aeberle,

    the IWC caliber 185 is derived from the Jaeger Lecoultre Ebauche 838. The
    other ultra flat movement Cal. 171 was based on a ebauche form Frederic
    Piguet.

    A total of 5400 Movements of Cal. 185 where produced in 1971 .1976. It is
    20.8mm in dialmter and 1.85 mm in height. Tickng at 18000 Bph (2.5 Hz)

    br

    Cromagnonman

  • Insider
    4 May 2020, 11:02 a.m.

    Thank you for the interesting and useful informations about the rare c.185.
    As far as I know IWC started selling the lepines/savonette (Ref. 5604/5605) in
    1981, they were in the catalogue from this year. The prices were high. The
    watches were further on in the price-lists uintil 1986, perhaps also 1987, I
    miss this catalogue, but 1988 this watch was not in. What was the reason to
    produce this small calibres?

    Perhaps to offer and to sell smaller pocket watches for ladies, we don 't
    know?!

  • Insider
    4 May 2020, 11:27 a.m.

    I just found the original pictures from the 1981 yearbook and pricelist for
    the refs. 1604 and
    1605:

    l

  • Master
    4 May 2020, 11:47 a.m.

    Although I'd seen it in the catalogs, I'd never seen one "in the steel" so to
    speak.

    the dual use of old and new logo on the pocket watch (as Schaffhausen did for
    a while too, on the wrist watches in the '80's) is intresting too.

    We note, (red circle below) that they were sold out!!!

    This fact is very
    intresting given one would imagine with so many sold, we would see more come
    up for sale.

    Many thanks for sharing this great information gents.

  • Master
    4 May 2020, 11:56 a.m.

    Hello Acromagnonman

    Hello Wolfgang ( I think),

    I doubt that 5400 pieces of cal. 185 have been built . These watches are
    extremely rare. IWC estimated how many- they thought- could be sold. The
    movement numbers were then reserved as consecutive numbers specifically for
    the whole series and the following calbre got a 5400+ number. Unfortunately
    the estimation might be wrong and much less was produced and sold. Nearly all
    pocket watches from the 'revival period' suffered this fate.

    Regards,

    Adrian,

    (alwaysiwc).

  • Master
    4 May 2020, 12:08 p.m.

    Adrian, indeed this would be a very logical explanation.

    These pieces are extremely rare.

  • Insider
    4 May 2020, 1:06 p.m.

    Hi Adrian,

    with a diameter of 9.25 lignes this movement was mainly intended to be used in
    ultra flat wristwatches. Even for a wristwatch it is quite small from my
    opinion. Good writswatches use movements of 12 lines and more like tha famous
    Cal. 89. ;-)

    The Cal 185 is used in the ultra flat portofino Ref 2008 and Ref 2010.

    The total number of 5400 pcs was surely intendet for "wrist use". That ist is
    used in Pocketwatches also was new for me. I am sure that Pocketwatches
    sporting calibre 185 are an absolute rare species.

    br

    Wolfgang

  • Connoisseur
    4 May 2020, 1:55 p.m.

    I second Wolfgang, that the Cal. 185 mainly was used in ultra slim elegant
    wristwatches, so probably only very few made their way into pocket watch
    cases. To add: The 185 was the base calibre for the Ref. 2050 Romana perpetual
    calender as well with a calender module added to the 185. The slimmest
    perpetual calender ever with a shock protection device. The 2008/2010 and the
    2050 from my point of view are the most elegant wristwatches ever built by
    IWC.

    Regards

    Th. Koenig

  • 4 May 2020, 6:48 p.m.

    Here are some pictures from the ref 2010, IWC made a few very flat ones , like
    the 2007 ( last picture )

    and the 2007

  • Master
    4 May 2020, 7:58 p.m.

    That's thin ... very plat !

    ... and very few around.

  • Apprentice
    8 Feb 2021, 3:08 p.m.

    Very nice. Thanks for sharing. In terms of the ref. 5605 - what many don't
    know is that there were actually very few with a completely different dial -
    breguet numerals and golden hands. Here's a picture... Best, Stefan