What is so special on “special edition” IWC Portugese Chronograph?

dear members,   first of  all, sorry for my broken English, but I hope, you can understand my thoughts and, maybe, some of you think even same… 

Im not a big watch expert, but in search of my future “ dream watch “ I was immersed  quite deep in this  topic, so I have my very personal opinion  about  every famous watch and here I want to share my  disappointment  from “special edition” Portugieser Chronograph...

But first about standard Portugieser Chronograph (IW 3714) . To create an iconic design, its not enough to find top designer and invest a lot of money,… there is “something”  else, but nobody can explain this “something” … IWC had a lot of luck to get this “something” with Portugieser Chronograph and IMHO its one of  the most iconic chronographs ever,  next to Speedmaster , Navitiemer or Daytona…. For me, nearly perfect size with 40.9 mm diameter and 12.6 mm thickness (I would prefer 40mm diameter and max. 12 mm thickness). Perfect form – take a look from the side perspective!! Very recognizable, balanced shape,… Genial dial – perfect balanced, symmetric,  neither overloaded, nor  blank… and, to avoid “boring perfection”,  cuted 12/6 on the top and bottom !  (many don’t like this, but for me this is very important part of its “something”). Just timeless , very versatile design.  Perfect dress chronograph, but also perfect everyday watch, to wear on jeans and pullover….  I would prefer it to any another chronograph as my “one and only” watch, but… what is inside??? “heavily modified” ETA 7750?!?!?  some  says, its very reliable,  accurate , inexpensive and light serviceable movement… yes, its is… but, I don’t pay 10 000 $ for the mechanical chronograph for this reasons... every  electric watch is more reliable, keep better time  and you can buy new for few dollars...  there is much much more , why I choice this watch... in house movement and display case back – this are 2  minimum changes  I await from IWC …

for 150 jubilee I awaited much more…  

1.    Dial – I excepted “special edition” dial,…  maybe silver , or some exotic material dial , maybe  with  structure,… anyway different from standard material/color combination… and what we got?!? Printed white dial???! Why IWC, why??? Applied (or embossed) numerals and dots are VERY VERY importand part of this watch!!! You can change the color, you can change the materials, you can change structure of surface, but please, never touch  such an important  parts of design, like applied numerals!.. 

2.    Case back – very good,  finally you have display case back ,… for me its very important to admire the movement as often as pssible… I like it… but please don’t need to write “special edition” everywhere, its cheap… not good… every watch enthusiast, who cares, know exactly, which is special edition… don’t need to write it on case back and winding rotor …. Thanks god, you don’t write it on the dial!  The watch itslef should be "special edition", not only printing on the back...   And what we got inside:   

3.    Movement – this is my biggest disappointment … in 21. Century , when Bvulgari (not really watchmaker) creates  Octo Finissimo,  all you can offer for your every time bestseller,  most iconic watch “150 YEARS EDITION”!!! is “heavily  modified” ETA movement !???  Ok,  now with column wheel and + 2 hours reserve ,… Great... on top of them, you increase the thickness of the watch…phenomenal….  For 150 year edition top seller watch I except something much much more special!!! Why not create new in house movement, hand wound (or, if possible with mikro rotor), flyback, decorate it as beautiful, as you can, put it in thinner case (12mm or less) and close with simple sapphire display case back!!??? This would be real 150 YEAR SPECIAL EDITION for me!!! And no need to write everywhere, to remain about this!!! Everybody would know this… maybe, economically it would be not directly profitable, but this would be biggest advertisement for IWC, everybody, everywhere in the “watch world” would speak and write about this! …. and it would increase the image and overall sales of company...    

IWC have new in house movement, caliber 89361, and put it in Portugieser Chronograph classic…. Why?? Of corse, this is a very very good watch, but it can never become an iconic, like IW 3714  IMHO!!Why its impossible to put same movement in IW 3714, without increasing the thickness??? If its impossible, why you don’t think about this, before you created new movement??? I hope very much, one day same in house movement (89000 caliber) or identical/better  will find his place in IW 3714 and will be visible trough display case back…. 

This  is, what I wanted to share with you… maybe someone of you think same,… maybe one day IWC will  consider the opinion of  his consumers… or maybe I except to much… who knows…   

Best Regards Genion2 

Well, the simple and short answer of course is: if you don't like it, don't buy it.

I somehow get the impression that you feel sorry for IWC for not getting it quite right, at least according to your opinion. There is no need to do so, IWC is doing just fine.

The new Portuguese Chrono 3716 is, here according to my opinion, a fabulous successor of the 3714. A very good looking, iconic watch, now with an in-house movement, at an attractive price. The Jubilee 150 series are limited, but of course in due time all kinds of regular versions will appear. I'm quite sure these new watches will continue the success IWC had with the 3714.

Kind regards,
Paul

I could be wrong but I think the 3716 is powered by an in-house movement 69355...and the dials it’s lacqueed seems pretty special...  perhaps you don’t see special editions cause it a limited edition piece... that is the 3716 not the 3714.. and the 150 years medallion is just lovely.. no? 

Well i I think the watches rides fine at 13.1 mm height...  but I would digress 41mm diameter feels small... still it does looks it’s part...
I wouldn’t put the IWC Portugieser Chrono the same as a Daytona or Speedmaster... 3714 has always been somewhat an entry level into IWC Portugieser.. if you are looking for something with a little more the 3903 sure would fit it.. but you would suffer the 42mm and 14.2mm height.

maybe you could write your wish list.... who know Kurt Klaus could design something new! 

Genion2, welcome to the forum!  hope you will find your grail watch one day.  

While I am no expert in this subject matter, let me try to address your questions with the limited info that I think I know:

1) dial.  If you have not noticed, all of the 150th anniversary watches from IWC share the same type of dial-making method.  it is called lacquer dial.  Comes in either blue or white.  Basically I think IWC puts 12 layers of paint (transparent and colored interleaving??) to make up for these dials.  I do not know whether you get a chance to examine any of these 150th anniversary watches up close in person.  If you have, you will know why it makes no sense to use applied indices.  Trust me, I am a BIG FAN of applied indices.  Nonetheless, these lacquer dials are simply superb.  If you want applied indices, I will recommend you to look at the regular editions of 3714 or 3712.  3716 are something else.  Sopmething special.

2) No where in the caseback, as far as I remember... says "special edition."  What has been engraved was: edition 150 years.  If it is a 150th anniversary edition, why shouldn't this be engraved in the back?  I don't see any problem with this--sorry, maybe just me.

3) Caliber 89361's dimensions are much bigger than 793x0.  The 69000 series of caliber used in the new Portugieser Chrono are meant for somewhat direct-replacement as the 793x0.  Granted it lacks some of the most recognized benefits of IWC in-house movements, such as Pellaton winding system.  However, looking at how much the 3716 are selling vs. the 3714... the difference in price is almost negligible!   Instead of complaining and whining, I think we should be thankful for IWC not to have jack up the price!  Sure, so the 69000 may not offer all the features that you want, but do you really want IWC to put a more sophisticated chrono movement in there, and increase the price by 30%+?

Also, adding a display back (with the saphire crystal for protection)... obviously that will increase the thickness of the watch.  IWC is not necessarily known for making thin watches... so I suppose fans like us will just have to accept this as a fact. 

It takes years for IWC (or any manufacturer, really) to come up with a new movement.  The 69000 has really just been introduced last year or so for the new Ingenieurs.  It is considered as a brand new movement.   

I am sorry I disagree with you.  I happen to really like the new 3716.  I also am thankful for IWC to put the caliber 69000 in it, thereby modernizing it yet keeping it affordable.  Actions speak louder than words... I have placed my order for a 3716 already.

Kelvin,

I am really jealous now.... i wanted to place an order for the 3716 too.. but sadly when i was at the boutique i got carried away and went with the 5102.
How i wish i could have ordered both and maybe the 3777 too.....  wait i need to say it.. I don't need another IWC, I really don't need another IWC...

If you dont mind me asking.. did they make you wait till October before you can get hold of it?? cause the wait is really agonizing.

thank you all for the answers! Off corse 3716 is a great watch, with 69000 movement, display case back and (if you like it)  "lacquer" dial...congratulation to you for the order, Kelvin! I think, next step from IWC will be reagular models with same movement and same case back... and my choice would be black one... Off corse, it would be great, if IWC dont increae the prices... Off corse 3903 is also very very beauful watch, but for me 3714 have much Iconic design and beter size ... but it is not about this... I just excepted much more for 150 years edition... maybe to much,... as I wrote, the ideal "150 years edition" for me would be regular size (or thiner), regular dial (but with another color/material combination) and in best case hand wound real in house movement.... and the price increasement  for edition model would be no problem in this case. 

reagards 
Genion

Hey Genion,

If you are looking for hand wound movement they did bring it out under the 5102 for the 150 years but you are again right that it will come with the applied lacqured dial... There is still hope! i am sure in 25 years IWC will celebrate its 175 years and you might get something from there collection.. there is always the 200 Jubilee range to come in 50 years..  but regular size or thiner.. that isnt something you see from IWC watche.. they have always been slightly bigger and thicker and to be honest.. I kind of like that from my IWC.. yess i know 46mm is big but hey that was how the first portugese watch actually started right?

I would like to add, in addition to all the Jubilee features, the action of new column wheel Chronograph is superb!! Lacquered dial is also just wonderful. I compliment IWC for combining all these features for not a great premium over standard 3714. 

Other watch companies gauge the customer for their anniversary pieces. 

Here a a picture of 3716. I think it is stunning!!

Here is my 3714

I think IWC did a spectacular job

no need to be jealous at all!  You can still order one now if you want (although perhaps not for too long!  better hurry if you want to get one).

I know... there are quite a few watches from the 150th anniversary that caught my eyes.  It is really difficult to choose among them especially when one is on a budget (like me).  I think the 3716 did almost everything right... and with a suggested retailed price set like this, I have no excuse not to get one.

They didn't explicitly say when I will get mine.  Probably have to wait till Oct or beyond.  I don't really mind though.  I don't need instant gratification  I can wait.  I don't need it right now and anytime soon in the near future.  I am ordering it in advance as I know it has been selling like hot-cakes.  I want to avoid the risk of not getting one later when it gets sold out.  It feels good to have two watches on order with IWC... that way, it reminds me not to do any more impulse buy any time soon... until they arrive.  That is... unless IWC pulls another quick one on me too soon... I certainly hope not.  arrrrghh... :D

Let's chant that mantra together... 

I concur wholeheartedly.  Before I saw it in person, I knew my heart leaned towards it.  The boutique staff "lured" me into getting something individually numbered.  After seeing it in person though... it sealed the deal.  No looking back.  3716 will be in my collection. I reckon it may not be for everybody... but then again, 2000 pieces aren't enough to satisfy the demand of everybody (and don't have to).

:)

I would hold my breathe for thinner movements for the near future from IWC.

Recent IWC movements seem to be designed to be modular, especially with base movements like the 69000.  I can only see IWC making use of these base movements, and adding modules on it in the future.

As I said, IWC isn't known for making thin movement.  Do what I did--instead of waiting for IWC to come up with thinner watches, buy shirts with bigger cuff-size!  :D

I really can’t.. it’s a limitation from my bank account.. I will not be able to pay for the second order  hahahhaha
I know... I felt really lucky I could still order mine in April... but I will surely keep a look out for the 3716-01

I can wait till October.. would really love to get it before my birthday.. it is suppose to be my own present.

here is, what would be my dream 150 Years Edition Portugieser Chronograph:

1. Case - Titanium Case, same, as regular model or thiner,  with display case back.
2. Dial - maybe also titanium, but dark one. 
3. Dial/hands - same as regular model, but whit white gold.
4. Movement - beutifuly finished, hand wounded in house movement.
5. Limited to 150 piceses.

to much, right? :)